Travels

HI all, so slightly regretting not keeping up with my diary/blog because 1: it's a real job writing the catch up, and 2: But I guess it's been caused by the fact I've been really busy at work and having a good time all round in my spare time. So I guess you can't do the good stuff if your always writing about it. Having said that, I am still going to try and get in the routine of updating more often.

So here is an account of my past 5 almost 6 weeks. Saying it like that I realise I really have left it a long time. Apologies.

Friday 15TH, Journey to the centre of SNNPR Region. Awasa as I might have mentioned is the central town/city in our region. It is only 50 years old and about half the size of Plymouth in population. In area maybe smaller due to generally higher population density here. Situated next to the smallest of Ethiopia Great Rift Valley lakes it is a well planned city, in a picturesque setting, with the valley wall rising up in the distance, running north east to south west on either side.

Brad (my new accomplice in Hossana) also needed to head down that weekend to meet up with some other Peace corp volunteers so we headed out towards Awasa early in the morning. After only an hour or so of beggars getting on, and Brad teaching me the local Language of Hadyisa (This being the Hadiya Peoples zone of the Southern Nationalities Nation People Region consisting up to 40 other zones and thus ethnic groups -some of these only being adjoined to the Ethiopian empire around 100 years ago by Emperor Menilik, Haile Selassie's Predecessor) …. for how to get rid of them 'waha wona' meaning 'god will give it to you' .After some time ,we set off. I spent the journey reading documents that would help with my meeting and Brad spent it in pain, his legs being even longer then my own.

Shashesheme.

On the way down to Awasa we head east off of the southern pointing arm of the plateau upon which Hossana sits at the end of and upon which 250k to the north of Hossana, sits Addis Ababa. We meet the road which heads south down the centre of great rift valley towards Awasa. At this junction is the Town of Shashesheme. It s the poor lookingcousin of Awasa. However, it's worth mentioning as it is the town which was declared by the last Emperor of Ethiopia (before he was deposed by the military junta) to be the international home of Rastafarianism. Accourdingly I think it is true that foreign nationals are able to obtain residency based on there return to their religious home. And they do. They are rich here and are able to live a Rasta life. Ethiopia has many differing religions, The main being orthodox, Islam, protestantism.. There is a genre of music called Shashesheme Reggae, which is in both English and Amharic and some Ethiopians as you might observe in one photo sport rasta colours and dreadlocks. (although the same colours do make up the Ethiopian Flag - the flag from which most other African nation have taken their colours -true story) Apparently, many of Bob Marley's many children often visit the town.

Arrival At Awasa CK and Awasa CTE

I was met off the bus by the VSO Regional Advisor for CPD who works in the regional office in a similar role – capacity building. She is not only there to advise V.S.O members in fact that is not her job at all. She is a useful source at the start of my placement and in the same field or department though, only at the regional level and so is working with other colleges like mine support the current process of making CPD part of the education profession. Short version is that she was very useful and gave me the ideas about how to get things moving.

After she had told me about the CPD she took me to meet the people working in Awasa CTE on CPD – in other words, same department, different college.

Afterwards we went to the English Language improvement Centre We met up with the co-ordinator of this. He is a great guy. The college grounds – they are beautiful in Awasa. At my college necessity mean they use the ground to grow grass to sell as fodder.

After a quick shower at my friends ( I cant emphasis how important having a shower upon my arrival is. 1 because it's what I miss most. And 2, for hygiene and public relation reasons) We headed out for the traditional Volunteers meeting as the pizza restaurant. It was good to meet the Peace Corp guys and Coincidently it was 3 of my friends birthdays this weekend and so everyone was more boyant than usual.

Saturday. On the Saturday we decided we would go out on the lake and view the Hippo's. Another V.S.O. who was in from another remote town, only to the South East of Awasa and who is keen about wildlife was especially keen and so after trying to haggle with government set prices we got a boat past the New resort built by Haile Gebrey Selassie (the runner not the deceased Emperor) and met the Hippo's. Now i've seen hippo's in a lake from the shore before but not in a boat. Maybe because of my ignorance, I wasn't too scared. We really got close to them and the boat driver kept on have to reverse the engine or circle out in order to keep a distance. Still we were often at as little as 10 meters away. Then the baby appeared. It was cute. I've now realised why babies are cute. It the simple fact that their heads are far to big for their bodies. As you can imagine this Hippo Baby (calf I believe) was not an exception. It had only been born in the night and the mother was not at all pleased. It surfaced on our side of the pack, the mother made aggressive noises accompanied by 180degree mouth openings which uncovered her awesome and hideous teeth and the rest of the herd moved our way. Even the driver. driver had had enough by now and we beat a retreat.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56291449@N07/5214123466/in/photostream/

Toilets:

Now to save me going on about them in the future it is required that I describe the situation in one go. I truly am thankful I am not a female for the sole reason I rarely find myself in the situation that I have to anything much more than stand in the doorway. The travel guide says 'toilets in Ethiopia will not form your fondest memories' -powerfuly understated. Although I do mostly frequent locals places. For some reason toilets in all but the very very best of places are poor.

That night, Saturday (but toilet description ensues) more drinks and some lush food with the peace corp guys. I discovered 'chacalour tibbs'. Immediately after I spent 30mins using the 'rest room' (a typcial example, metal shack with shit everywhere encircling a drainpipe with concrete foot placements, tissue paper, urine and faeces on the floor did abound. Use of a bucket to flush) This was the first time I had been ill since my arrival in Hossana and necessity was the only thing that would get me into a public toilet.

Sunday This was a flying visit and on the Sunday I headed back so that on the Monday I could get stuck into completing my tasks with Fasah and Mohammed. When I reached the bus,somehow I left straight away which was great. Last one on!

Monday Work under way Having returned from Awasa with some good ideas, given to me by Karen but more importantly, a renewed determination to get on with things.

At the end of the previous week I had visited a number of primary schools with my line Manager Fasah.

The object of our visits was to collect information about the schools that we were required to submit to the regional education office. So with this in mind and my renewed vigour I created a visual timetable on the Monday made on 3 A2 sheets it shows the entire 36 weeks of term left in my placement. As I write I am halfway through the 1st sheet. Crazy.

Tuesday. Schools. After Monday we returned to schools, this time with the addition of Muhammed. We aimed to complete our task of visiting all 14 school by the end of the week, having visited 3 the week before.

In the evening I met up with Brad,

For my first few weeks here Brad had not been here. After discovering this I messages him again to see if he wanted to meet up as I had heard he would probably want to. We met for luncheon and then later for dinner. We went to eat at a spot called St Georges (As well as being there most important Saint it is also the name of the most popular beer, and the only one you can generally get on draft.

Most of our nights consist of us ridiculing each others accents and culture (Brads impression of an Englishman is almost identical to that of Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins and apparently I sound like a cowboy or Redneck or someone from Fargo (place and film))

Brad speaks fluent Amharic, both reads and writes it fairly well too. He is good to learn off but realistically it will be almost impossible to be as good. All my collegues are professionals and English is the official language of business and education. I'm trying though! And can easily get by to eat and shop.

Except for the passes through the town, the only white people in the town are Brad, Megan and myself.

Wednesday After our little discussion about Toilets I thought the subject of food or more precisely my eating habits, should be explored. Additionally it is suitable as in this period* as well as my daytime work based activities getting going, at night with the discovery of Brad I found myself exploring for the first time town at night and its associated 'times'

*(the period between my arrival and aloneness (not looking for pity) and Brads arrival/return to town)

wOt

Of course before Megan or Brad arrived I was eating out. However I was on my own and exploring things for myself. I was at home many an evening, being less inclined to tackle the Hyaena's and with no one in town to keep me there, my exploration of eateries was limited. Similarly my colleagues mostly live in the compound or naturally go home for lunch on the college bus service. I had had some invites and attended some peoples houses for lunch and dinner but most importantly Muhammed had not arrived. Now that I was out in schools, I was spending many lunch times in town and it was Beers and Tibbs in town at night.

Tibbs is my main source of protein and pretty much the only thing I eat out. It's more than me just being boring. 1St, Most restaurants (in my town) will only have 2 or 3 dishes this is because most restaurants.Tibbs usually being one (A butchers is just a guy in both with an animal strung up ready to take what you want. Each restaurant also has one) The point is though, that if someone comes to restaurant they invariably want meat. And tibbs is universally popular. 2nd you can get a good cut and know it. 3rd I like it. The exception is Wednesday and Friday when it's fasting day. Then it is non meat only. Bayonet consist of a pile of lentils, a pile of mashed up sweetcorn, a pile cold beetroot, and shiro. It doesn't compare to Tibbs

Tibbs is Fried/broiled sheep or goat meat (I don't usually ask, but you can tell goat, it's tangy/fragrant in an almost gamey way and tougher) in a greasy sauce. I hated the grease at first but I'm getting used to it.

Restaurants

A restaurant usually consist of an inside area, perhaps two of three other rooms and a courtyard all in rather plain, unfinished but nicely painted concrete. The furnishingis mostly plastic covered rickety tables and fragile chairs plastic stools. To attract the attention of a waiter is required that you clap and make some noise which is traumatic, being reserved and British, but if you don't, you just sit, getting hungry. My latest tactic to get their attention is to call them brother in amharic, which, whilst done by Ethiopians, they find me doing it, bizarre.

Still on food, we approach the subject of how to eat.

Eating and Feeding

I haven't used a knife and fork since I left the training centre. For breakfast, food is served with bread to pick things up with, every other time food is always served with injera which is the flat doughy stuff (some people call it flat-bread but this is as misleading as calling an omelet a pancake, you get the shape but that’s all)which you tear off, do a wrapping thing which i'm gradually getting the hang of and put it and inevitably your fingers into your mouth.

When you have two or more people having a dinner together you will always share the same dish. The restaurant will simply bring a bigger dish. Whatever wOt you have order will be placed in the middle.

There is also a tradition here to feed other people who are your friends.

Clean hands If you are one of those people who always like yo hands clean, The fact you sit with grease on you fingers when eating for some time would be too much.

(tissue is called 'soft' here which I think is excellent, we should call things by a descriptive more often like the floor 'hard' or coins 'shiny' or people we like 'friendly' or even people we don't like …...)

Friday In work, our task had been delayed and would continue the next week and the reasons are now not individual memorable.

Saturday FOOTBALL Saturday I woke up at 6 in the morning, (first light) and headed down to the football pitch. Aka, the cattle grazing area, aka the hyaena’s nigh time prowling area, aka the learner driver circuit, aka the only piece of grass I’ve seen around town, named The Goformayda. Anyway I headed down and was pleased to see 2 or 3 groups of player starting their games. (apparently I was late). I headed towards the most organised looking bunch. Granted they had only jumpers for goalposts (the shorter the goalkeeper the smaller the goal, as it was judged unfair to allow a goal that the goalie couldn't reach. Even if they were short) Neither was there any apparent pitch boundary. In fact, just like when back in school, each instance of the ball going too far was decided upon at the time the collective sort of knowing if it was fair to continue of not. After a short wait the game that had been being played ended and I joined the group that had been waiting at the side of the pitch and formed a team. I played on the left and drifted up and down the wing, finding myself supporting the defence because we were obviously up against the best team of the three and as it turns out people don't really bother to defend here. It was quickly apparent I was hopelessly unfit and my fears for the run 5 weeks later spiralled. Despite this the game as it turned out was to continue until the best of three goals match had concluded. All the other players were pretty awesome at attack. All could step over like a pro and there were even show-boaters who fancied themselves as being a bit 'fast', who had managed somehow to have their name printed onto an old Man U or Chelsea shirt. Short passes was the name of the game. When ever I long passed the ball across or up the field they honestly thought I’d miss hit it, even if it did reach it's surprised but intended destination. None seemed to really be interested in defending and there was no real skill in the goalkeeping. When I saw one using there hands it was a surprise. (despite this and my unhealthy state, they didn't let me in goal, which was frustrating as I'm pretty good there most of the time.
Firstly we scored a good goal with one of our better player out manoeuvring three defenders to create and score an easy chance. This spurred our opposition into a period of attack which resulted in one of the 2 awesome players scoring a 20 yard screamer. This was follow by a period when I was sure we would concede another and thus the match. Then our right winger had the ball and countered up the right midfield. one of our attackers broke away and I headed after him into central midfield and then attack. After being cornered, in one rare incident, the winger crossed it diagonally in. Weather or not it was intended for me or for the attacker 10 meters ahead, it glided in over my right should and came onto my left foot. Bringing it down gently, like a baby caressing a feather, with this one touch I took it past a defender, let it settle and scored the winner with a 15 yard grass cutting half volley. That’s right, I was awesome.

Unfortunately this resulted in our team continuing on to play the next team as it was evidently winner stays on. Whilst my team was delighted with me and my goal, I could have done with a rest. I revived somewhat and more confident now that I had assuaged my team mates suspicions, that I might be a little bit too crap, with the scoring of the goal. I then however proceeded to play terribly. Still we won this game and in the 3rd I eventually got myself into goal and performed somewhat better.
I headed home some hours later and had my weekly bucket shower. Lush.

Sunday That Sunday we went out to the new restaurant it is really quite nice with tiled things wood and straw rooms and a fountain with no water in it. For some bizarre reason it is called Eindhoven, and they spell it differently every time. Any way it is the only place I care to visit which serves Chacolar tibbs. Chacolar Tibbs differs from normal tibbs in that it is cooked over charcoal which they then place in a little clay pot with meat on a top layer (it looks a bit like a giant version those perfume burners you can buy) So it cooks in front of you. It isn't so oily, but a film of tasty grease remains for you to mop up .It is awesome

Mitmita is what I order with every meal and is a ground pepper similar to the more widely spread Burberry pepper. You roll up your already chillied meat inside you injera and then dip in the orange spicy powder.



Little South Africa

Many people here often go to south africa if possible to raise money and come back. The number of buildings higher than one story has gone from 2 or 3 a few years ago to well now it is lots and lots. All the time buildings are spring up and plans others are being posted. The money is sent back to buy taxi's, tuk tuks, pay for houses, start business’s, anything.




Friday 29 This week was spent visiting the schools with Mohammed. It was good to have seen all the schools. I didn't enjoy one of the children spitting It is moments like these that make you want to have command of the language.

Saturday Chickens I had wanted some for a while and my neighbour moving his hen house out of his garden for anybody to take signalled my chance. I headed to the Market successfully haggled the price to a 1/3 of the ferengie price, which was still 5 birr (not much) above the local price and carried my dehydrated, hungry chicken back in the taxi.



Lay D Diana and Queen Egglizebeth are just about surviving a neck ringing at the moment. In order to pay their way, they must produce 68 eggs. Every time I buy feed, this number continues to rise. In three weeks, they have laid 10. Diana is Really stupid and ran off with local cock after the first couple of days. Luckily she did not become pregnant. Liz is a more with it, but nervous. Picking her up result each time in her pathetic attempts to peck me. After they ran off with the cock I had to find better ways off securing them and they are now always on length of rope. It's not cruel everybody does it here. Cruel is running around for 30 minutes chasing chicken which lay insufficient numbers of eggs.

Tuesday Hyeena Update. Because I now frequent town at night it is required that I think of how to get home. Sometime Megan and I share a late night bajaj. When I'm on my own I take a pillion which is a taxi on the back of a motorcycle I must state here that V.S.O. Does not endorse it because no helmet is provided. Anyway, it is only a short ride, about 2 miles. Megan prefers the Bajaj. Anyway here is the conundrum. After dark, the bike ride and the contract bajaj cost 10birr. A head. 1/8 of a days allowance. It gets dark at 6. the line taxi's cost only 1 Birr. They stop about a mile from my house and to get home means walking next to the Goformeada and through a bit of forrest. They dont stop running until 7.30 sometimes.

What to do? Before 7 everybody is out and so a swift walk home just after dark is fine. The other night however, I was out later than I expected, past 7.30. I walk up to the place in town where the bikes go from, but just as I arrived a line taxi came around the corner and stopped. I hopped on and hopped off at the other end, only 1 birr the poorer.

When I alighted I realised there were few people out. So I set off at a pace. Now when the Hyena's arrive you hear them calling to each other. But before that though, you hear the dogs yelping. It' not the same as when they set each other off barking. It's distressed. This yelping is the only reason, I think we have wild dogs living in our compound. Nobody owns them but everybody tolerates them for that reason.... So I have to walk down a long road upon the right of which is the expanse of fields after just under a mile, I turn left then right into the forest and walk for about 1/4 of a mile to my compound turn right just before. This night as I was walking I heard on the other side of the field the yelping start and get closer. Then, as I reached my turning, again closer. The hyeana's when they come, approach from the north east. The road runs north, and compound is to the north west of the road. So you can see that I'm not necessarily heading away from them as I enter the forest. All this is in my head as I walk down the forest road, picking up a stone as I go. As I turn the corner to reach my compound now just 50meters away, I hear the hyeana's call at the far end of the small field which borders my compound. I hurry a little, I'm relieved to get inside. I close the door to my house and the compound dogs begin to yelp.

Have no doubts I wouldn't be out that late again without planning to catch a taxi bike. I didn't like it.
I also have a theory though. They killed as many as 80 hyaena’s just before my arrival to stop them eating people. I reckon i've got until after Christmas for them to breed significantly.

In other news a V.S.O. Volunteer here was bitten badly on the arm by her landlords dog which didn't comfort me as I arrived from dodging Hyaena’s to have a growling dog lick my hand when I couldn't see them in the dark.

And a teacher in a town to the south of me had his stomach removed for him, in the street, by a lion.

Wednesday Cleaning Day I was inviting people around the house on friday and I was made busy buying roasted barely (a favourite here) biscuits, stuff to make brochetta, an inadequate amount of popcorn (which they have with their coffee mostly) and Coke which they mix with Ambo

Ambo is water which appears from springs in a place of the same name. It naturally emerges carbonated. All they do is stand over it with a bottle and pass it on.

Friday 5 Paper

Fireworks night Apparently i'm an eccentric (I hope this is the spelling or I'v got this horribly wrong)

I spent much of Wednesday and Thursday evening collecting firewood and straw and stuffing a pair of trousers and an old sheet of Brian's the last volunteer that Megan had sown into a shirt with the straw. Many of the people in the compound still were unsure what I was doing and must have assumed I like stuffing people with straw and burning them.

So Friday arrived, I was all set and at 1, which is 7pm your time. (Hang on. Their clocks go with the sun. So what we would call 6am is 12 to them and 7am is 1 etc)

So some of the neighbours came around.We had drinks, food and a bonfire which for 2 or 3 minutes looked like it might set the dry grass on fire, despite the fire barrier I had made and then we set off Chinese made Roman candles. See pictures! After it was over we headed for town. Unfortunately I also had to pour 2/3 or my water suplly on the fire



I think I had actually got too excited about November the 5th because they actually offered me the day off to celebrate.

Saturday Market Saturday we visited the market as my volunteer friend had not see one yet. We were followed by a bunch of hilarious kids trying to extort money from us and then later we went to the opening ceremony of the revamped Youth centre Brad had been working with. They had raised enough money to buy a sheep to slaughter as well as a lots of other food. There was a coffee ceremony, a band and speeches and also I spent my time counting the scratches incurred building my Bonfire (79) and performing keggles during.

Shankula Sunday On Sunday 2 of us set out to climb up the highest point in Hadiya Zone, Called ShanKula (a capital means an explosion in this case or at least an emphasis)

We set off at 6 to avoid the sun. Picked up breakfast and then tried to find transport. We tried bajaj's but none went that far or were interested in a contract. Eventually we found a bus that was taking the dirt road that went past Shankula to a place called Dimo. We would get off at Kusho and it would only be 20 birr. A 10th of the price I had anticipated for a contract I thought would be necessary. Bonus. And so with no idea of how we would return we set off on a 50minute bus ride

At over 3000m there are 4 peaks, each almost completely independent. It only took an hour from the base and after we had completed the highest one we climbed back up the another which lacked trees and so sported a good vue. To the north, Hossana, to the east another Mountain, Ambricho the last peak at the edge of the wall of the valley before you head east down into the Great rift. To the south the rolling hills before you get to the more rural areas home to the Oromia people. To the west the ridge which marks the valley beyond within which runs the Omo Wenz River. Beyond the valley which separates Hadiya from the west, lays Jimma, one of the homes of Coffee.




Our second assent had not pleased the self nominated guides whom we didn't need and who had assumed we would return past their town after the first climb and thus provide them with just cause to ask for payment. At our turning from the road to climb the second peak, they begged we continue to their village, gave a quick, lame, attempt at a cry for money and then hurried off.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/56291449@N07/5214120882/

When we eventually did return to the village the boys were there. We asked when the next bus would be. No English was spokenand our Amharic was not getting through and many besides may have only spoken Hadysa and quickly a crowd of 200 assembled, which must have consisted of the entire village. After a bus appeared going the wrong way we decided the crowd was too much and to hotfoot it to the main road, about 4miles north east. For 2 miles of this a lady carrying a baby ran bare footed asking for money and getting her baby to ask for money. After 3 miles a bus going the wrong way appeared and said he would come back soon to take us for a price of 300birr at our exclamation he told us we were rich. We informed him we were volunteers and he drove off with a promise to return. I didn't think he would return unless to collect his extortionate price so we headed on. 20 seconds later and a bus going the correct way stopped and wanted 50 birr Remembering the receipts, I showed these. He realised I knew the real price and told us to 'get in' – common phrase for any form of welcome here. We actually got back for less because we had walk part of the way and a lawyer on the bus insisted we not be ripped off. We got back to town at 4.30 and headed straight for a cold beer. 'Ice cold in Alex' styli.

Monday School improvement plan

I was back to work Monday and feeling the burn from the walk as I set off to one of the schools to discuss their school improvement plan.

Tuesday The realities of living in a Water scarce environment.

OK, so lets be realistic here. I have water. It comes to me from a tap, it just doesn't come very often.
Mostly the water comes for half an hour a day. Not on weekends. Recently however things have been a bit different. I've been away a bit and so not able to arrange stuff around being at home to collect water. Secondly they are here they won't be able staff. This has meant that the water was off for a week. Luckily I was away much of it but did run out. Now the water is only turned on every other day All this has meant that I received my first real glut of water in three weeks, yesterday(friday). It's funny how happy the sound of a tap spluttering to life can make feel. I filled everything!

Still I and the people in my compound are lucky. If I don't see some old lady or young girl carrying a 'jerrycan' as they call it a long distance it is a strange day indeed.(in fact they are not standard issue metal jerry-cans but WHO subsidised yellow plastic containers) And not all the water they carry is clean.

Even when I have water, how I use it has had to change. Much of my water is used twice. With the lack of it flushing the toilet becomes a lesser priority. Having enough to drink and at least a little to clean dishes is the most important. And then something to wash with. Thus water used to cook potato’s in is reused to rinse greasy dishes before their proper clean. And used sink water is used to flush the toilet.

Getting my water ready to drink is just as much a job as getting it from the tap. If nothing else I don't mess with how I deal with the water. I must boil it and because of the altitude, of around 2300-400 m just boiling the kettle is not sufficient to kill all viruses and amoebic cysts – which sound evil going by there name. I must boil it at a vigorous boil for 3 minute unless I also want to contract typhoid of which is possible even with the jab if only less harmful. After boiling which takes time, again at this altitude, it must cool before it goes into the filter. And so you can see, if I have no water when the tap comes on, it doesn't mean I can drink. In fact it was dark yesterday(friday) before I could start drinking to make up for the lack of water over the previous few days. (I can easily walk the mile to shop to buy bottled water but it is expensive so I avoid it, although last week it was necessary)

It does mean I have to choose strategically when to wash clothes, when to wash myself and has forced me to take the executive not to shave, at least until Christmas, when I will have a personal review period. - to see what has or hasn't happen

Wednesday The Deane of the college has just been reassigned

Thursday travel.



On Thursday we travelled down to Awasa. After waiting for some time we got up and moved to another bus, half the bus got up in fact and made their way to another. Obviously the driver was annoyed and came to the other bus with us. The ensuing argument saw me fall like a bridge across a river, across an open drain and thankfully not down the 6ft drop. This event of a ferengie falling, put an end to it all and we got on our way.

Upon arrival, I headed down for a beer by the lake and then a quick game of table tennis, then it was sundowners and food with my friends when they got off of work.

Friday 12 Conference

I was up early on Friday to attend the conference, roped into a small presentation the day went off without event.
Saturday, Another conference day followed by visit to the nightclub 'climax'. Avoiding the prostitutes, we hit the dance floor.

Sunday. The Elephant Having climbed the hill by the lake some weeks before the next target was the hill nicknamed 'the elephant' because of its broad back and pointed peak at one end. Despite being lower than Shankula in altitude, from bottom to top the difference was greater, and steeper. We walked the few miles to the base through a new and well made estate. For the first mile we had 40 kids in tow. They died off after a fair climb up and we were alone on a relatively flat summit. We circled around the aerial mast station compound guarded by soldiers with machine guns and headed for one of those little pointy things which shows you the top. On the way back a guy inside the compound who had been cutting grass was watching us try to take a timed photo of ourselves together. So I tried to pass the camera through the fence to him and asked to take a photo. He immediately started shouting. So slightly perturb I carried on setting up the photo. After a couple of shots (pictures) 3 soliders appered sporting AK47's or alike, climbed through the fence and headed towards us. I picked up bag and we all started to continue along the path. When the main guy with the big gun asked for money I simple replied yellom (there is none) whilst holding my camera by my side and looking away. I was relieved when he laughed and repeated my reply. I ws temped to ask him to take the photo but checked myself.






Monday Italian and ice cream, because Monday and Tuesday were national holidays, there seemed little point returning home before then. And so on Monday we spent the day eating. We had the icecream in a mock version of starbucks.

Travel Tuesday public holiday. Tuesday I travelled back home. (sorry if some things I include are mundane but they are for my benefit later, as much as yours now)

Wednesday Was back to work and my main job was preparing for my workshop about how to prepare and use interactive learning resources with current college students the next day.


Thursaday, The next week I would be walking alone as my coollegues would be attending a conference

Friday 19 travel,

Brad and I got up mega early because the owner of our favourite wOt bet also owns a new minibus. Whilst we are advised not to use minibuses because of the speed and the chat chewing high drivers, this one is brand new and the driver was good.


Burger, Brits and Beer So anyway, we arrived

SO as I said the we arrived in Addis at midday despite a flat tyre. Hungry for 20 minutes we search for the Babylon of Burger makers we had got wind of. At last we found a quaint colonial building inside was polished wooden flooring and leather seating, a chess board and paintings of English country vista's

The burger was immense. Real! Bacon which is unheard of. In fact it was my first piece of pig since my arrival. Melted cheese and a good quality burger with salad and a sauce which tastes like the MacDonald's sauce. Immense. This splendour was an indicator of the things to come this weekend

After departing from Brad and the Burger(actually of course the burger came with me - for a while) I made my way to the V.S.O programme office to check in and pick up my residence permit. As I arrived, so did my friend from the wild Balin Mountains. She had got a lift with her friends girlfriend and they invited me back to the Embassy for lunch at their cute cottage in the grounds. As I said before there is golf course but also I discovered a stables and people riding horses that didn't look like they wish to be put down. And a tortoise or 2. Ironically the girlfriend was French. Without her I wouldn't have got in. So it took a French person to get me into my own embassy. After lunch I headed to the market which was between my hotel and the embassy to buy some trainer for the race. After shopkeeper tried to rip me off, so prompted by my friend, I showed them my VSO pass which say in Amharic that I am a volunteer earning local wages. And what do you know it worked. Less than half the price. Your price, £16

I had a shower at my hotel and then meet with many of the V.S.O.s who were taking advantage of the discount the programme office has arranged with them, then we headed out to the 'pride bar'

after a few beers and almost breaking my left food on a camouflaged flagstone (skinned 2 of my toes, not good prep for the race) we headed in a group of about 25 to the German beer Garden. With real German Purity Standard Reinse Hiegaborg (sorry Alex) Beer. I had 2 steins of blond and a lush pizza.

Of course After this,it was home time.

Saturday. Truly, a great day.

We got up early in the morning and headed out to the centre of Addis, not that it has one. I'd a few s the night before as discussed and that combined with the amount of pollution in Addis whilst being stuck in the back of a rackety old minivan bus made me start to feel sick. Once out we got directions to the Sheraton and headed up hill to it. Ironically or perhaps appropriately enough it overlooks some of the worst slums in Addis. We found it and walking off the street was literally like walking straight from the Third world to the first world. This Place is amazing by western standards. After finding that one of us (not me) had been pick-pocketed and having had a search we gave up and headed down to the pool. Loungers out and as you can imagine (and gather from the photo's) it was lush. We supped Strawberry Dakaries and chilled!



later we headed up for high tea! They have it all wrong! Or I do. I Thought hi tea was just a few bites to eat with tea, possibly just scones, but this was a buffet. Not massively extensive, but all the same. Salmon sandwiches, wafered cheese wholegrain sandwiches, amazing stuff inside croissants, spring rolls and more. (you can't get cheese here other than this weird powdery stuff with no flavour so these were snapped up)

Then the desserts! Little chocolate tarts, strawberry stuff sprinkled on magic things. Some ridiculous chocolate cone thing which actually made me well up a little bit as I drew it towards my mouth. It was that lovely.

The best bit of all is that it was all you can eat. So we did. I guarantee they made no profit out of me. The normal people in the lounge. (When I say normal I mean the business men, the rich African Union diplomats families, old white guys who are paying the local prostitutes they are with to be there etc)were going up getting a few nibbles, then returning for a dessert. We on the other hand discussed whether it was bad form then decided we had paid for it and were going to rinse the lot. I got 2 plates of savouries (stacked) and then three puddings. Everybody on our table of 6 did the same and there were only a few overlaps of deserts. Naturally we tried and polished off the lot.

At the end of the day, I stopped to check the prices of the rooms incase I wanted to treat myself.

5 grades: 1 $495 – 5 $7985 per night, plus tax, plus service. Plus apparently Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie stay in the 10,000 Doller Pent house

You may guess for yourself if I will get to stay.

I don't want to miss out the Tea. I haven't had tea since my trip to Hossana. It's all made too pitifully. But of course this was high tea I supped, oh yes indeed I supped. But what then do I drinkat other times? Well this brings me nicely onto....

Coffee

Addicted. Before I came here I could count on my finger the cups of coffee I had drunk. And even then these were out of necessity. Like being on a freezing cold beach in the middle of winter at 12 at night waiting for dad to catch some seaweed so that we could go home. Or again on picnics when some bright spark would decide that somehow a cup of coffee could taste better than even a bad cup of flask tea.

So you can see I hate coffee. I even have the flight reflex when someone breaths on me after drinking the stuff. The tea isn't tea here though and people all go for a Buna (coffee) and for some reason I just decided that a Machiato tasted nice one day. Not the first day. For the first month, coffee was repulsive still.

Now I drink 4 a day or 2 at a time. And I always ask for torKEela Machiato, which is stronger. I can't stand this milky stuff. Interestingly I have found that 4 Machiato's before heading out for beers prevents a hangover the next day. Don't ask me how. I don't make the science, it's just a fact of life.

Hilton and the Man

It turns out that a few of us registered in a different but slightly more expensive way than the rest of our fellow V.S.O. Runners. We couldn't find out how to find our t-shirts we needed if we wanted to collect a medal at the end. My friend got the number and after leaving the Sheriton we were required to head to the Hilton. I know a real drag. So off the 3 of us went. We arrived collected our pack and then were told that we should attend a complimentary meal with a complimentary drink. OK i'm stuffed, finding it difficult to breath without the chocolate eclaire from earlier making a guest star appearance, but free food and beer is free food and beer. And the Hilton is the Hilton. So despite the Hilton being a bit aged and looking a bit like the inside of an airport terminal as well as the toilets being only 5, we got the food and drink. I wasn't terribly impressed with the food as it was 'a pasta meal for running prep' and pretty bland. We sat down then the race organiser got on the mic. As well as some other famous runners, Haile Gibre Sellasie was to be coming and saying some words. Now I had heard of him before arriving in Ethiopia but being here, you realise he is the most revered sportsman, a national hero, I can't relate an English equivalent because we have many. He is really just one on his own at present, makes him more important to Ethiopians than if there were more. He is a legend in the world of long distance running and is about 40 and as you may have heard in the news is only just to retire next year after a blip 2 weeks ago.. I don't usually go in for that whole celebrity thing, mainly because I don't watch T.V. But also, of course, because I'm above all that. We all agreed though, it was a good find meeting him. About 300 other ferengies were there because they had travelled over to take part in the race and many were members of organisations which had raised up to 380000 birr over 15000 pounds each. So they were called up to have their picture taken. My cheeky friend crept up behind the organiser and mentioned that there was a group from V.S.O here (our entrance fee was our donation) and he called us up. Thus the photo:



My friend who I mentioned was staying in the British embassy went to his palace of a house and had her medal signed by him and had lunch with him. Random.

Sunday Race. We got up early and met in the lobby of the hotel, the race start time was to be at 9 and we had to meet at 7.30 with everyone around the corner at V.S.O. After making sure I was the best dressed runner (Having done no training what so ever, I had decided that it wasn't how ran but how I looked doing it). We all met and got the bus to the Hilton. Once there and after some photo's we headed to the start line.



The colour of the T-shirst was yellow and yellow was everywhere. A real carnival atmosphere had started and was to continue throughout the run around, with 10's of people joining into many groups and chanting and dancing both at the start and during the race. We wormed our way to the start line. After a few minutes one of our party was pickpocketed which was both a shame and unexpected. I had been unable to get assurances about keeping my bag securely in the bus which had brought us and so decided I would have to carry it, containing as it did, much of my money and my camera and some water. The excitement built in the croud of 35,000 and as the clock reached 8.59 the crowd began to surge forward. The troops became nervous and it was possible to see batons raised at the front, some 10 meters ahead. Then suddenly the soldiers turned around and ran and everybody followed. We swept forward and ran happily on in a sea of yellow and to the sound of singing and chanting and yells of excitment. I quickly lost everyone and it wasn't until a Kilometre later that slowing up and turning I found my group of 4 friends. I had seen no signs for distance and we headed on turned past the national theatre and on a level for some time. Next we turned and had a long straight, steady decent for which I knew we would pay. Then a decent ascent and again I found I had lost my friends, Hoping to find them later I soldiered on. A few twists and turns and we hit a slope and could see the steep ascent on the following side. My began to rub and it was necessary run holding it. I had decided that the attitude of the runner in 'without limits' which I had watch again recently would dictate my mood. Therefore I had at the start decided that any tiredness or fatigue related pain I felt was a state of mind and that finishing without stopping what a fact. This was good given the skinned toes on my left foot and the stone in my right shoe that I had discovered shortly after the start and which had now commenced rubbing on the outside sole. But this combined with the realisation that the balloons overhead marked only the halfway line broke my resolve. Then a 50 year old Irish guy ran past me on the next hill. Just as I was contemplating my next move two of the 4 friends I had left behind ran up next to me. And we sorted out that hill. A few corners later and we were still going well and continuing to overtake many. Another Kilometre and One of my friends had to stop for a wee. We circled and waited and 2 mins later blazed on. This small lull really did for us and the next 2k were difficult. We passed the only water station in the race at 7k, which was chaos but I managed to get a water bag to suck on and we proceeded. At about 6k one of the girls had asked if we should walk. No reply. At 7k I asked the other what she thought. Thankfully, 'no'. We headed on. Then my friend who had first suggested the walking, powered off into the distance! 2 of us stuck together for a while in a low mood at the absence of being able to see the end but she regularly trains and it was not surprising when she moved ahead. Which she did when we saw the tall building in the distance about a kilometre away and around a corner. The last K was on my own and I picked up the pace a bit after the last 2k's had seen my legs wanting to extend less and less. I finished in 1hour 7 minutes and 40 seconds. Whilst this is not a good time, I'm happy with it, given that I didn't train at all and that I finished without walking. The battle over pain was do-able after all. Additionally it turns out the blister on my foot from the stone was huge and it was actually easier to run than walk anyway.








We collected our medal and headed for steak sandwiches and chips with beer.

That night was messy. A search for a coffee actually led us to the Beer garden in the afternoon. Then communal beers at the pride bar and then 5 of us headed for a real Indian which was awesome. We then tried to locate a dancing bar. The first was too loud, the next too full of prostitutes and the next was good. The dancing blues brothers (actually 2 guys dressed identical suites set the tone and carnage ensued) My friend pulled out some extraterrestrial moves and had the whole bar in awestruck stitches. Other friends found us after having got wrecked having had to stretcher half their party back to their beds before finding us. 4 more gins later it was home time.

Monday

Shop, Having decided that I made a mistake in buying lots of food in Awasa back in early October, besides the powered milk, the porridge and the spices it was a waste. Cans here are 20+ birr a pop. I could buy a full meal out for that, with a drink and have it cooked for me. So I went to the western style supermarket eyed the embassy employees and WaGs with suspicion, as did they, me, and left with just a few spices which I definitely can't get in Hossana.

Travel I could have settled for a long journey back on the big old public bus but I put myself out and by myself found the place where minibuses go from. It seemed strange they go from dodgey back alleys the kid took me down, but apparently they do, and after all, it worked out ok. After a breakneck journey down in under 3 hours( the stories of minibuses being driven by guys on chat is true because I saw him chewing it – not that I believe chat does anything.) I got a meal, walked past 10 white people which was totally weird as I haven't seen half that many in town in the whole time i've been here. They were speaking English and were overweight and stuff.

This week, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday26th, This week has been quiet and thankfully so. After the last few weeks travel I was in need of a rest and to sort some things out at home (such as water supply and storage as well as get some reports done that are due to V.S.O. And the college.

Brad and Megan are both away in Addis to celebrate Thanksgiving

This week we have also had some awesome storms. Before Tuesday it had not rained here since mid September. The lightning is impressive and the thunder deafening. The more changeable weather is a nice change too.

I have been writing reports and this thing, The most up to date news I can give you is that I played football today and put an early end to a quick start to training to run more races as I pulled a muscle, well, ok I pulled my bum, and it smarts some.

Fly's It has only rained a couple of time this week and already, fly abound. As I write a spider based in the window frame, which I was smart enough to declare an amnesty on, has just murdered the fly which had been bothering me for the last 2 hours.

Future This weekend i'm going to restock the cupboard and try to finish the garden I started.

Next week marks the start of 4 weeks I have to get as many of the schools through the school improvement plan as possible -it the regional objective. I'm not doing any travelling until Christmas and it's down to work and routine after being a bit all over the place for the last 3.

The End

I will end this dissertation with a quote from A Brief History of Time by S Hawking, Englishman with an American voice

''Bertrand Russell was giving a public lecture about astronomy. He was describing how the Earth orbits the sun and how in turn the sun orbits a vast collection of stars we call the galaxy.

At the end, a little old lady stood up and said ' What you have just told us is rubbish. The world is really a flat plate supported on the back of a giant tortoise.' The scientist gave a superior smile before replying, 'What is the tortoise standing on?'

You're very clever, young man, very clever,' said the old lady 'but it's turtles all the way down!'''

I just can't help it, I'm a sucker for geeky science jokes.

P.S. A film came out that I didn't get to see that you may want too. It's called 'the Athlete' It's about a famous runner who won the Olympic Marathon in Rome, bare footed. for Ethiopia back along. The story is more in depth than that, with twists His winning the Olympics, being the start of the story as far as I can tell. Anyway it has won awards (I think maybe at Cannes)and is half in English with Amharic subtitles and half vice versa.

The sentence they sell it on is 'It took a whole army(Italians) to conquer Ethiopia; It took just one man to Conquer Rome.

See more of my photos on flicker at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/56291449@N07/